Get Comfy Outdoors

Here is another helpful hint I found thanks from Pillar to Post:

Summer outdoors can be a very enjoyable experience. Here are some ideas to increase your pleasure outdoors.

Keep flies away.
Put vases filled with mint and basil in the middle of the table. Flies don't like the odor and they'll find somewhere else to land.

Light up the area.
Keep votive candles from blowing out by stashing them inside terra-cotta pots. To double the glow, line the insides with aluminum foil.

Keep salads fresher longer.
To make sure a salad stays crisp and fresh in the outdoor heat, nest the bowl in a bigger bowl filled with salted ice. Toss regularly to keep everything cool.

Create a smoke-free zone.
If you're grilling your dinner, set up the grill downwind of the party so guests wont get smoked out.

Fend off mosquitoes.
Set up an area with bug spray or wipes in case mosquitoes come out at night. Add a box of baby wipes to clean residue off faces or hands.

Time For A Vacation

Vacations are key to staying energized, focused, rested and motivated. When you are energized and motivated, you perform better. Not all vacations are created equally however, and there are definitely some guidelines and "best practices" to ensure that you get the most out of your vacation.

Here are "The 5 Secrets to Taking A Great Vacation" -- enjoy!

Secret #1: Schedule and pay for your trips at least six months or more in advance.
By planning, scheduling and paying for your trips far in advance, you're almost certain to actually take them.
Benefit: When you plan that far in advance, you get to look forward to it for months! It's a great motivator.

Secret #2: Go somewhere special.
Make a list right now of the six places you and your family would love to go to. Then enlist their help! It's a great family activity. Book it now. Buy the airfare, book the hotel and car and pay for it.
Benefit: Watch the attitude of your family change -- for the better.

Secret #3: Don't return to work until Tuesday!
Even though you get back Saturday or Sunday, don't go right back to the office. Give yourself time to readjust. Nothing ruins a good vacation more than going back to work the very next day.
Benefit: Reduce post vacation stress.

Secret #4: Take at least one mini vacation per quarter.
Also, plan to take at least one extended weekend break per quarter. Go somewhere on one. Spend others around the house getting things done or just relaxing. All the rules apply: plan, schedule, and pay in advance.
Benefit:Even more to look forward to!

Secret #5: Don't work while on vacation.
Your vacation is exactly that - a vacation! Leave your laptop, blackberry, and paperwork at the office. Resist the temptation to check in with your office. This is your and your family's time. Ask your sales manager or assistant to handle all business while away. They will do fine without you, and it will all be there when you return.
Benefit: You will actually feel like you're on vacation and you'll enjoy it even more!

If you follow these rules, you will not only enjoy your life more, but you'll be more productive at work as well. Imagine that -- more successful and happier!

HOW TO INSTALL A HOME SECURITY SYSTEM ON A BUDGET

1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's used size 14-16 work boots.
2. Place them on your front porch, along with several empty beer cans, a copy of Guns & Ammo magazine and several NRA magazines.
3. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and magazines.
4. Leave a note on your door that reads:
"Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim, I went to teh gun shop for more ammunition. Back in an hour. Don't mess with the pit bulls - they attached the mailman this morning and messed him up real bad. I don't think Killer took part in it but it was hard to tell from all the blood.
PS - I locked all four of 'em in the house. Better wait outside."
INSTALLATION COMPLETE!!

(hey, we all need a good laugh now and then!)

Tips for the first time buyer

Are you a first-time home buyer trying to get into the market?

Here are steps to take to help you decide whether you're ready to take the plunge.

1. Check the selling prices of comparable homes in your area. You can do a quick search of MLS listings in your area.

2. See what you can afford. Find out what you would have to pay on your mortgage.

3. Find out what your total monthly housing cost would be, including taxes and homeowners insurance. In some areas, what you'll pay for your taxes and insurance can almost double your mortgage payment. To get an idea of what you'll pay in insurance, pick a property in the area where you want to live and make a call to a local insurance agent for an estimate. You won't be obligated to get the insurance, but you'll have a good idea of what you'll pay if you buy.

4. Find out how much you'll likely pay in closing costs. The upfront cost of settling on your home shouldn't be overlooked. Closing costs include origination fees charged by the lender, title and settlement fees, taxes and prepaid items such as homeowners insurance or homeowner’s association fees.

5. Look at your budget and determine how a house fits into it.

6. Talk to reputable real-estate agents in your area about the real-estate climate. Do they believe prices will continue falling or do they think your area has hit bottom or will rise soon?

7. Remember to look at the big picture. While buying a house is a great way to build wealth, maintaining your investment can be labor-intensive and expensive. When unexpected costs for new appliances, roof repairs and plumbing problems crop up, there's no landlord to turn to, and these costs can drain your bank account.

Make your home a smarter home (or cottage)

10 weekend projects to make yours a smarter home
For the most part, having a smart home is simply a matter of energy efficiency. These projects, plus 14 quick tips, will help you save both energy and money.
By Popular Mechanics

Kitchen

1. Find sustainable finishes.
Kitchen upgrades offer a chance to choose products made from recycled or renewable materials. Consider a stone countertop made with recycled glass, a sustainable cork or natural linoleum floor, or cabinetry made from formaldehyde-free plywood.

2. Go chemical-free.
Caustic chemicals will partially dissolve a clog, but they contaminate water supplies and the fix won’t last. Instead, turn to the sink plunger — its flat bottom sits flush with the sink, unlike a bell-shaped toilet plunger. Before snaking a drain or removing the sink’s trap, try using needle-nose pliers or creatively bent coat hangers.

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more on PopularMechanics.com

19 ways to slash your utility bill
Save money by sealing leaks and drafts
PM war journal: A day at Forward Operating Base Salerno
Gallery: 10 geeky ways to deliver mail
Read more from Popular Mechanics
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Living room

3. Build better fires.
To boost efficiency in the fireplace, begin by replacing the leak-prone midchimney “throat” damper with a “top-sealing” or “chimney cap” damper. This opens, shuts and seals like a storm door for the chimney. Then add a fireback — a handsome iron plate that protects firebox brick and radiates heat into the room. A fireplace heater will distribute the fire’s warmth by circulating air into the fireplace. A heat exchanger warms the air and fans blow it (smoke-free) back into the room, increasing the fireplace’s efficiency from 5% to 65%. If you don’t use your fireplace at all, contact the National Chimney Sweep Guild to find a certified contractor to seal your flue, which will prevent heat loss through the chimney.

4. Upgrade the thermostat.
Nearly half of the average home’s $2,000 annual energy bill goes toward heating and cooling, but a programmable thermostat can reduce that figure by about $180. Instead of a seven-day model, opt for a five-plus-two-day one — this will allow you to program the temperature for different weekday and weekend schedules, maximizing comfort and efficiency.

Basement

5. Insulate the edges.
Sealing a basement’s perimeter walls with a vapor barrier and insulation helps heating and cooling systems work less hard to maintain indoor temperature and humidity. Insulate the ceiling’s joist bays against the foundation walls with expandable foam for an airtight seal. Then spray foam to plug up gaps where pipes and vents exit the house.

6. Heat water wisely.
Use foam jackets to insulate exposed hot-water pipes within 5 to 10 feet of the heater. Gas users can upgrade to fuel-saving tankless heaters; electric users should add timers so water stays hot only when it’s needed.

Attic

7. Ventilate the space.
Install inconspicuous ridge vents that run the length of the attic’s peak. These work with soffit vents to cool the attic in summer; in winter, an exit route for warm air reduces the risk of leak-causing ice dams.

8. Cut air conditioning consumption.
Whole-house fans pull in outside air through the downstairs windows and push out hot air through the attic vents, cooling your house at a fraction of the cost of central air conditioning. Effective except on the most stifling summer days, the typical whole-house fan consumes less than 600 watts, but a 5-ton central air unit can draw more than 6,000. Solar-powered attic fans are very efficient, too, but ventilate only the attic space, not the living area.

Yard

9. Make decks last decades.
Composite decking built with recycled plastic uses waste headed for a landfill. Redwood, cedar and ipê (pronounced ee-pay) naturally resist rot and can last much longer than pressure-treated wood. But buy only lumber certified “Pure” by the Forest Stewardship Council — there are no bad species, just bad forestry.

10. Add an awning.
Decks reflect the sun’s rays into your house, but adding shade above nearby windows and glass doors can reduce heat intake by up to 77%. In the summer, a retractable awning cuts an adjacent room’s air conditioning use by nearly 25%. It rolls out of the way in the winter to allow warm sunlight in.

14 steps to take today

Stroll through your home with Popular Mechanics’ list of low-cost (or free!) upgrades, making quick fixes as you go.

Turn down the water heater: Lower the temperature to 120 F, and for every 10-degree drop, you recoup 3% to 5% of the power bill. No temperature dial on the tank? Check the temperature at the tap farthest from the heater.
Unplug appliances: Turn off power strips or pull the plug on appliances completely. Idle machines suck up 11% of your home’s electricity.
Clean your dryer: Slip a shop-vacuum hose into the dryer’s guts to remove lint wads and boost efficiency. Use an electric leaf blower to clear lint from vents that lead to the outside. It’ll work like new.
Optimize heating and cooling: Move furniture and rugs away from vents and radiators. Run a fan with the cooling system raised 2 degrees to drop cooling costs by 14%.
Drip-irrigate beds: Line gardens with hoses — no sprinklers, no hassle. Use mulch to retain moisture, and set timers to water in the morning.
Adjust mower blades: Cut no more than one-third the grass blades’ height — this helps your lawn develop strong roots, remain moist and absorb runoff.
Trust the dishwasher: Fully loaded, the dishwasher uses less water than hand-washing dishes. Save power by using the air-dry mode, not heat.
Insulate the attic hatch: Keep the conditioned air downstairs by weatherstripping the attic hatch’s edges. Cover the hatch with rigid polystyrene insulation.
Use small appliances: Downsize your cooking device: Toaster ovens consume half the energy of a full-size electric oven; microwaves use only one-third.
Install storm windows: Storm windows reduce heat loss through windows by 25% to 50%. Magnetic internal storm windows go up without a ladder.
Streamline the fridge: Fridges work best at about 38 F; freezers should register between 0 F and 5 F. Leave a thermometer inside for 24 hours, then check it.
Keep filters clean: Pleated electrostatic filters catch up to 60% of allergens (blue fiberglass ones catch only lint and dust). Change them every two to three months or as soon as they show discoloration.
Draw the curtains: Cover windows to prevent air loss. Curtains engineered for insulation multiply the R-value (a measure of thermal resistance) of standard insulated glass.
Fix a leaky toilet: Drop food coloring in the tank; if it ends up in the bowl, there’s a leak. Replacing the flapper can save thousands of gallons of water a year.

2009 Spring Meeting

The spring meeting for all owners is Saturday, June 6 @ 10 AM at the clubhouse. Please come out and get up-to-date with other residents of the resort.

Attahced Garages and Indoor Air Quality

The following is an excerpt from Canada Mortgage and Housing Corportation newsletter. I thought it sounded interesting to I am passing it along to you.

Attached Garages and Indoor Air Quality
Canadians can spend an average of 90 per cent of their time indoors. Having clean indoor air is therefore critical for respiratory health.

Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) and others have published material on how to provide good indoor air quality (IAQ). However, there is one source of pollutants that we are just discovering: automotive pollution from attached garages. This About Your House discusses the risks of attached garages and how to keep car-based pollutants out of your house.

Attached garages are convenient, and are a common part of suburban houses. The attachment could be to the side of the house, with a room over top of the garage, or even as a part of what traditionally is the basement (see figures 1, 2 and 3).


Figure 1 — Garage attached at the side of the house
Figure 2 — Room over top of the garage
Figure 3 — Garage as part of the basement

Automobiles give off pollution. Starting a car in a garage, even with the garage door wide open, can result in a higher concentration of combustion pollutants (for example, carbon monoxide) in the garage and house.

Driving a car into the garage and closing the door results in emissions of various chemicals over the next several hours as the engine and its fluids cool down. The pollutants in the garage air can be drawn into the house over time.

This is not just a theoretical problem. In a survey done by Health Canada in more than 100 houses in Windsor, Ontario, the results were very clear.

Houses with attached garages had measurable concentrations of benzene (a gasoline related pollutant) in their indoor air. Houses with no garages or detached garages had little or no benzene. This is true of a host of other airborne chemicals. The study revealed that pollutants in attached garages can find their way into the house.

There are also secondary sources of pollutants in garages, apart from car-based emissions. There are many gas-powered appliances, such as lawn mowers, chain saws and edging tools whose emission systems are not as good as those found in cars. Chemicals such as pesticides and herbicides are also sources of pollutants.

One disconcerting fact is that garage-to-house air movement is not obvious or straightforward. In the 1990s, when the first inexpensive carbon monoxide (CO) sensors became commercially available, many started going off without an evident source of carbon monoxide. Responders such as utilities and fire departments often wrote off the incidents as false alarms, prompted by over-sensitive CO detectors. However, research in Minnesota (Wilber & Klossner, 1997) showed that the time delay of CO entry to the house from the garage could be a factor. When a cold car engine starts up in the garage, even with the main garage door open, it can generate up to several hundred parts per million of carbon monoxide gas in the garage. Once the car has left and the garage door is closed, the garage may still hold a relatively high CO concentration for hours. Air leaking from the garage to the house can cause the CO level in the house to start climbing. After several hours, the house CO level is high enough to set off the CO alarm, but by then the garage is low in CO and is not recognized as a source.

How Garage Air Gets Into Your House
It can be difficult to understand how and why garage air moves into the house. After all, there is at least one layer of drywall between the house and the garage, and a significant amount of insulation. The door from the attached garage to the house typically has weatherstripping and a spring to hold the door closed. So how does air enter?

Air can move through small cracks in the walls between the house and the garage, and through the top floor ceiling. There are many tiny holes and cracks that permit this air exchange to take place and they exist in all houses. It takes a sophisticated test with specialized tools, such as a blower door and leakage detection equipment, to find infiltration and exfiltration points.

Field tests by CMHC have discovered that the walls (and perhaps ceilings) between garages and the house can be as air leaky as the rest of the house. Some houses get most of their “fresh air” through the garage. One or two of those tested had so little leakage that there was no measurable air movement through the walls between house and garage. However, most garages have some air leaks, roughly in proportion to the size of the exterior wall.

But air movement into a house requires both a hole and a pressure difference. Does a pressure difference exist? Yes. CMHC measured the pressure difference across the house-garage wall and the house pressures are often lower than garage pressures, especially in winter. This is quite common in colder weather. Having exhaust fans or vented heating appliances also creates lower pressures inside the house, and garage air is drawn in through the leaks.

Preventing Garage-to-House Transfer in New Houses
The best way to prevent garage air entry into the house is to make sure that there are no leaks between the garage and the house. In new construction, this should be easy. The builder should make the interface walls and ceilings as airtight as possible. This is more readily done if the builder knows that reducing pollution transfer from the garage is a priority.

The builder should:

Ensure the airtightness of the garage ceiling and walls that are next to the house, before the insulation is installed and before installing drywall on the garage side.
Check all wall-to-wall junctions or wall-to-floor junctions and seal them. If the top of the basement wall is exposed in the garage, that header space can be notoriously leaky.
Diligently seal all penetrations from the house to the garage (wiring, central vacuum exhaust and so on).
Keep mechanical systems (furnaces, water heaters and so on) out of the garage. While most Canadian builders would not consider putting mechanical systems in the garage, it is common practice in parts of the U.S. The few Canadian houses that CMHC has tested (in B.C.) with heating systems located in the garage showed high levels of garage pollutants in house air.
Preventing Garage-to-House Pollution Transfer in Existing Houses
It is much harder to prevent air movement from a garage to a house in an existing house. In a house already built, there will be leakage areas but they are usually hidden. They are not easy to locate and not easy to seal.

However, air-sealing the garage-to-house walls and ceilings may still prove worthwhile. If the garage side has no drywall, sealing air leaks may be simple. If the drywall is simply screwed on the wall and is otherwise unfinished, removing the drywall gives access to the interior spaces. Finishing the drywall itself with drywall compound and paint, as well as caulking all visible cracks and joints, may improve airtightness.

Another approach involves installing an exhaust fan to vent garage air outside. A good bathroom fan could be used. By operating the fan, the garage becomes depressurized relative to the house thereby preventing air movement from the garage to the house. This will not impact to any great extent on house heating costs but there will be an electrical cost to run a fan.

The use of a garage exhaust fan may lower the garage pressure enough for airflow through the holes to go from the house to the garage, rather than the garage to the house. Check the pressure difference by opening the door to the house just a crack and feeling for air movement from the house to the garage. A smouldering string can also be used to detect air movement. If air is moving into the garage, the pressure is in the right direction. This will assure that garage pollutants do not enter house air.

To avoid high electrical costs, choose an exhaust fan with low energy consumption. To further reduce fan usage, have the fan activated for a period (for example, one hour) after the garage door is used.

Continuous use of the exhaust fan is recommended if:

There are a lot of noxious chemicals in the garage. Better yet, consider sending them to a hazardous waste disposal site.
The garage is used to store or maintain older vehicles with higher emissions.
There is a lot of coming to and going from the garage through the main garage door.
What to do
All buyers of new houses should confirm that their builder is aware of this issue and takes measures to do a good job of sealing air leakage paths. It is the only easy time to seal the air leakage points. An effective air sealing approach is far better than installing an exhaust fan after the fact.

Owners of existing houses have harder choices. If there is evident and annoying transfer of odours and drafts from the garage to the rooms next to the garage, the leaks should be located and sealed. If that task is too onerous or expensive, the garage exhaust fan solution could be considered.

Finally, if the attached garage is not used for vehicles (as is often true) and there are no other major chemical sources in that space, garage-to-house air movement should not be a significant problem.

Bibliography
Wilber, M.W., & Klossner, S.R. (1997).
A study of undiagnosed carbon monoxide complaints.
Proceedings of Healthy Buildings/IAQ ‘97, 3.



Related CMHC Information

Carbon Monoxide
Combustion Gases in Your Home — Things You Should Know About Combustion Spillage
How to Reduce Chemical Contaminants in Your Home
The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans
Breathe Healthier Air in Your Home: A Consumer Guide to Residential Indoor Air Quality Investigations
Garage Performance Testing
Clean Air Guide: How to Identify and Correct Indoor Air Problems in Your Home